2010 Domaine Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts is another of the bolder wines in this lineup. Waves of yellow stone fruits, honey and sweet spices burst from the glass. The greater age of the vines and the heavier presence of clay in this site (right next to Perrieres) gives the Referts much of its volume and textural richness. Although exciting at the outset, the Referts turns hard and angular on the finish. Today, the wine’s balance is not quite where it should be. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. I have to admit I was a bit perplexed by these 2010s from Sauzet. A number of wines were massively reduced and/or heavily sulfured to a degree I did not encounter at any other property I visited. The best selections in the lineup are quite strong, which suggests some of those elements may dissipate over time as the wines integrate, but at the same time, I can only report what is in the glass, and the reality is that some of the wines in this lineup are very awkward at this stage. I suggest readers taste the Sauzet 2010s before making any major commitments. The 2010 harvest started on September 17th. Yields were closer to normal in the village wines, but down by as much as 35% in the premier and grand crus. The wines spent 12 months in oak, 25-35% new for the premier crus, and 35% new for the grand crus, followed by six months in tank. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Next to Meursault Charmes. Rich and racy with lots of fresh citrus aromas but it seems expensive. (JR)

(28 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boudot): Pale, bright yellow. Captivating, complex aromas of citrus fruit, pineapple, minerals, flowers and hazelnut. Smooth and concentrated, with lovely lemony cut giving it a very harmonious sugar/acid balance. Sappy, dry and serious, with a mineral-driven aftertaste. Excellent intensity and potential here.