2001 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell'Annunziata

Voerzio’s outrageous and irresistible 2001 Barbera d’Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata explodes out of the glass with sensations of spices, toasted oak, chocolate and minerals, followed by masses of rich, extracted dark jammy fruit that coat the palate. Despite its utterly decadent and hedonistic qualities, this wine is superbly balanced, with serious structure, tremendous length and an inviting finish. On the second day, the overt oakiness in the wine had receded. In its place a very pretty mineral note emerged, and the wine appeared even longer and more complex than when first opened. Aged for 1½ years in 100% new barriques. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2013. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Inky purple. Voerzio's Barbera is a wine that simply transcends varietal with its exotic, explosive nose of spices, chocolate and mineral notes. It is richly concentrated and structured on the palate, displaying waves of dark fruit that coat the palate with tremendous thrust, closing with a seriously long finish. I am once again amazed at how well balanced this wine is given its sheer size. A great effort.

(bottled entirely in magnums; aged in 50% new and 50% once-used barriques Bright, full ruby. Exotic berry cocktail of a nose, with a strongly spicy character. Creamy, dense and deep, with penetrating berry flavors complicated by earth, spices and bitter chocolate. Creamy-sweet and rich, finishing with substantial, lush, oak-driven tannins and excellent length. I might have picked this blind as a cross between California cabernet and zinfandel. But it's very impressive red wine.