2003 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate'

Medium red with an amber rim. Less evolved on the nose, even a bit youthfully closed, hinting at dried flowers, mocha and truffley underbrush. Big and round but also more juicy, with a slightly medicinal reserve and sound acidity to the red cherry flavor. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that will require a couple years of additional cellaring. This is excellent for the year. (The Runcot was not made in 2003.)

Grasso's 2003 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté reveals a decidedly dark, brooding personality redolent of dark fruit, menthol, spices, leather and coffee beans. Made in an intensely powerful yet layered style it offers notable richness as well as complexity but at the same time, the appearance of more advanced aromas suggest it may not be especially long-lived. Incidentally, I have already gone through half a case of the superb 2001. Readers who have an opportunity to pick up this wine should not hesitate to do so.

Grasso’s 2003 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate reveals a decidedly dark, brooding personality redolent of dark fruit, menthol, spices, leather and coffee beans. Made in an intensely powerful yet layered style, it offers notable richness as well as complexity but at the same time the appearance of more advanced aromas suggest it may not be especially long-lived. Incidentally, I have already gone through half a case of the superb 2001. Readers who have an opportunity to pick up this wine should not hesitate to do so. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Elio Grasso is one of those producers who for some reason doesn’t seem to receive the recognition he deserves. While that is unfortunate, it does mean the wines are often available at very reasonable prices. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; Tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; Tel. (503) 289-9600