2008 Château de Chorey Beaune Les Vignes Franches Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru

The Chateau de Chorey 2008 Beaune Vignes Franches had only just finished malo-lactic conversion when I tasted it in March (of 2010 that is!). Its high-toned nose of pistachio and almond extract, kirsch, iris, and heliotrope led to a bright, penetrating palate, whose vivacity was certainly enhanced, but whose texture and potential complexity were masked by residual CO2. Still, it’s clear that this will remain a sharp-edged, and as such, typical representative of successful 2008s, and will probably be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Benoit Germain did not begin picking his 2008s until September 29, “by which time,” he claims, “every other grower in Chorey was finished,” though he adds with a wry smile that “last year 2009 I was ahead of everybody.” With a little help from space heaters, all of the 2008 whites here finished their malos by early March (of 2009 that is), but timing for the reds varied widely, and in any case, Germain favors late-bottling, so that most of them were still in barrel when I tasted here in March. That the principal Germain 2007s displayed such vivacity and could hold their own against his 2008 collection surprised me, and since wines from this estate often require considerable cellaring to show their true meddle, these 2007s represent an excellent and immediately accessible introduction to the Chateau de Chorey. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70 Also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476 and a Scott Levy Selection, Norcross, GA; tel. (770) 730-0361