1997 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano

Saturated deep red, the darkest color of this set of '97s. Bright but tight on the nose, hinting at black cherry, licorice and camphor; rather austere in a Barolo way. Big, ripe and rich, with plenty of body, superb depth of flavor and a chewy texture. Muscular but not heavy. Finishes with broad, ripe tannins and slow-building, lingering fruit. I would have picked this blind as Barolo.