2019 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora

Deep red in color, the 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora has a stunningly layered and pure nose and a distilled feel, with aromas of raspberry liqueur, fresh lavender, wet stone, sweet earth, and fresh sage. It offers wonderful energy on the palate, with ripe, velvety tannins, and even though it’s medium-bodied, it’s not lacking for depth, revealing notes of tea leaf and bergamot on its long finish. It’s going to be an age-worthy wine to drink 2026-2046. As one of the most important and quality-minded co-operatives in the world, Produttori del Barbaresco is currently composed of 51 growers across Barbaresco. Founded in 1894 by Domizio Cavazza, the headmaster of the Royal Enological School of Alba, it was originally a collection of nine growers. Today the operations are managed by Aldo Vacca, who was formerly the assistant to Angelo Gaja for 15 years.

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There's good fruit intensity and plenty of character that makes me want to revisit this in a few months' time.