2009 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino

The estate's 2009 Brunello di Montalcino initially offers good depth, but like so many wines in this vintage, it lacks persistence and is also quite forward. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke and tobacco notes open up in the glass before the tannins take hold of the palate. My sense is that the fruit will fade before the tannins soften. The 2009 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a dense and full-bodied rendition that delivers an enormously floral bouquet of crushed rose petal and dried potpourri with background tones of cinnamon stick, root beer and caramelized brown sugar. Past vintages of this wine have shown great power and structure in the mouth, but the 2009 vintage is veiled and nuanced instead. There’s a silky and tight quality to the tannin backed by a long, polished feel. The wine never feels bulky or dense. It will be interesting to see how it evolves, but if you don’t want to wait, it can also be consumed in the near-term. Drink: 2016-2024. Importer: Vinifera Imports, www.viniferaimports.com

Concentrated, mature-looking ruby with orange rim. Already a little developed with notes of leather and tobacco and not entirely focused. Concentrated fruit lined by powerful tannins. Could do with an additional year in bottle. (WS)