1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia

The 1998 Barolo Cascina Francia from Giacomo Conterno is delicate, layered and perfumed, showing gorgeous finesse and lovely inner tension in its fruit. Overall this is a soft, accessible Cascina Francia that is drinking beautifully today and should last for at least another decade. Both bottles I tasted from the property were truly sublime but I should point out that I, and others, have had decidedly different experiences with bottles purchased in the US, which have often come across as decidedly more austere for reasons that admittedly remain somewhat of a mystery. For those who are curious, I didn't included a note on the 1998 Monfortino as it doesn't take a rocket scientist to conclude that the wine is much too young to deliver any real pleasure at this stage, no matter how thrilling the wine might be to taste!

This first flight explored the four most recent vintages of Cascina Francia, which offer something for every palate. The 1997 and 2000 are very immediate, pleasing Barolos, while the 1999 is the most classic and layered wine. The 1998 has always been atypically closed for the vintage, although it reveals much character and beauty with decanting. 1998 Barolo Cascina Francia—Rich translucent ruby. Despite its medium bodied frame, the 1998 is deceptively powerful and massive, remaining very compact, although the classic flavors of roses, tar and mint slowly begin to emerge as the wine sits in the glass. Of the wines in this flight the 1998 gives the impression of needing the most time, which confirms my previous experience with this wine. Austere, but built to last, the 1998 is a wine to forget you own for at least another five years, but probably more.