2009 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello

The 2009 Barolo Colonnello is destined to occupy a special place in my heart as it turned out to be the first sample in my opening blind flight as Italian reviewer with The Wine Advocate. Darkly concentrated and rich, it sets the stage beautifully for 2009 Barolo thanks to its enormous grace, power and elegance. Where it really wins praise, however, is in the mouth. It shows solid grip and firm tannic tenacity that is bold and muscular without going over the top. It moves steadily over the palate in an exceptional manner. The bouquet opens to wild cherry, black licorice and drying notes of crushed white pepper. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. The landscape of Italian wine has forever changed with the passing of three of its most legendary figures. Giuseppe “Beppe” Quintarelli of Valpolicella died in early 2012, Franco Biondi Santi of Montalcino passed earlier this year and Aldo Conterno left us, at the age of 81, in May 2012. Conterno was a transformative figure for Barolo whose creativity and interest in modern winemaking techniques forever changed the region. In the 1950s, at 23 years old, he moved to California to learn about the wine trade there. He decided to complete his mandatory Italian military service in the United States and ended up serving in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Illness meant he hadn’t been out much in public the last few years. As one producer told me, “You always felt his presence even if you didn’t always see him.” Importer: Massanois Imports, Scarsdale, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100

A rich, dark sensual wine, the 2009 Barolo Colonnello impresses for its depth. Black cherries, plums, tar, menthol and orange rind emerge gradually as the wine opens up in the glass. With its big, broad shoulders, the 2009 is totally striking in its beauty. The Colonnello is usually one of the more refined wines in the range, but in 2009 it is quite big and powerful. With more air, the wine's underlying minerality comes into focus, adding an element of tension that is highly appealing. In 2009, the Colonnello is remarkably complete and harmonious.

The 2009 Barolo Colonnello is destined to occupy a special place in my heart as it turned out to be the first sample in my opening blind flight as Italian reviewer with The Wine Advocate. Darkly concentrated and rich, it sets the stage beautifully for 2009 Barolo thanks to its enormous grace, power and elegance. Where it really wins praise, however, is in the mouth. It shows solid grip and firm tannic tenacity that is bold and muscular without going over the top. It moves steadily over the palate in an exceptional manner. The bouquet opens to wild cherry, black licorice and drying notes of crushed white pepper. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. ||The landscape of Italian wine has forever changed with the passing of three of its most legendary figures. Giuseppe “Beppe” Quintarelli of Valpolicella died in early 2012, Franco Biondi Santi of Montalcino passed earlier this year and Aldo Conterno left us, at the age of 81, in May 2012. Conterno was a transformative figure for Barolo whose creativity and interest in modern winemaking techniques forever changed the region. In the 1950s, at 23 years old, he moved to California to learn about the wine trade there. He decided to complete his mandatory Italian military service in the United States and ended up serving in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Illness meant he hadn’t been out much in public the last few years. As one producer told me, “You always felt his presence even if you didn’t always see him.” Wine Advocate.June, 2013