2009 Beaune Greves

The 2009 Beaune Les Greves shows the dense, powerful side of Beaune. Smoke, tar and anise add complexity to the dark solid fruit. The Greves is exceptionally long, intense and inviting in a virile expression of this site. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Veronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Good medium red. High-pitched aromas of medicinal dark fruits, smoke and flinty minerality; smells riper than the Clos des Mouches. Then more solid and chunky on the palate, with broader shoulders to its medicinal black cherry and spice flavors. Finishes with serious building tannins that will require bottle aging. Not an elegant style now but this is very young.