1995 Volnay

The medium ruby-colored Volnay offers a ripe nose with cherry and earth scents. That is followed by a silky-textured, medium-bodied core of raspberry and boysenberry fruit with touches of underbrush. Anticipated maturity: Now-2002. It is only appropriate that a producer who crafts the top generic bottlings in Burgundy should also be responsible for some of its finest village wines. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A Becky Wasserman Selection, French Fax # 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; tel (415) 398-1200, Martin-Scott, Lake Success, NY; tel (516) 327-0808.