2009 Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Blanchots Reserve de l'Obedience Grand Cru

Laroche’s flagship 2009 Chablis Les Blanchots Reserve de l’Obedience is a selection of the estate’s best barrels from Blanchots. It possesses considerable depth and density, with a rich tapestry of fruit that tends towards the tropical end of the spectrum. It isn’t markedly better or more complex than the regular bottling, per se, just quite different in style and personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Very pale, bright yellow. Strong vanillin oak and spices on the nose. Quite silky on entry, then big, spicy and rich in the middle, with a strong acid spine giving shape and lift to the flavors of grapefruit, crushed stone and ginger. Turns quite savory on the back end, with the wine's sweetness cut off by powerful acidity. Finishes impressively long, with strong iodiney minerality and terrific lift. This was vinified in about 50% oak, but was racked into mostly used barrels.

Nine months on lees, 80% in oak barrels. Selection from Blanchot lots, more oak. Restrained creamy citrus. Plenty of initial impact in the mouth, balanced richness and freshness. Taut but not pinched and long fresh finish. (JH)