2019 Brunello Tenuta di Sesta

Here's a new wine from Tenuta di Sesta that represents a selection of the best fruit from the latest-ripening vineyard plot placed at the estate's highest elevation. This 1.6-hectare parcel sits at 350 meters above sea level with rocky soils, clay and limestone. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Costa di Monte shows similar texture and fruit weight as seen in the village bottling; however, the flavors feel even darker in this case. If that wine has red and purple fruits, this wine veers toward black plum and blackberry. It sees both Slavonian and some French oak and ages for three years. It closes with rich texture, some sweet almond, spice and velvety tannins. Production is limited to 3,700 bottles, and I give this bottle an edge in terms of longevity.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Costa di Monte grumbles up from the glass with a savory blend of flowery underbrush, cedar, wilted violets and crushed black cherries. This model of purity is silky and serene with cooling acidity and crisp wild berry fruits underscored by a core of saline minerality. The 2019 tapers off with tension, leaving a web of fine tannins that add a classically dry sensation as orange and blackberry notes fade. The Costa di Monte is a lovely Brunello in the making, yet it will require extensive cellaring to show its best.

Deep ruby with bricky rim. Ripe nose that seems to be developing fast. Ripe, sweet, dark fruit that lacks real expression as well as originality. Completely ready now. (WS)