1988 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico San Lorenzo

This producer turns out a relatively austere, tannic, tight-fisted style of Chianti that is not my favorite, but one has to admire the wines' purity and structure. The wines are more architectural than hedonistic. With that in mind, readers would be better off spending the $16 asked for the 1990 Chianti Classico than over twice that amount on the single vineyard wines, which are only negligibly better. The 1988 Chianti Classico San Lorenzo exhibits tougher tannins, and more firmness and tightness. While the color is deep ruby and there is excellent underlying fruit and ripeness, this wine requires 2-3 years of patience. If the tannins do not fully melt away, my rating will look too generous. Importer: Divino, Chicago, IL.