1980 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru

Attentive readers will know that I adore this vintage at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and this bottle (number 61) of the 1980 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru didn't disappoint even my elevated expectations. Wafting from the glass with lifted, ethereal aromas of rose petals, peonies and potpourri mingled with notions of raspberries, coniferous forest and exotic spices, it's more floral and fruity, a quality that's replicated on the medium to full-bodied, intense but weightless palate that's suave, seamless and melted, with a cool core of fruit and a long, intensely aromatic finish. This sensual, captivating wine brought an immediate hush to the table when it was served.

This is one of the underdog vintages for DRC of my career. While most other red Burgs in this year were light, DRC delivered excellent wines, particularly the RC. This bottle showed a dark garnet color with aromas of meat, earth, dried flowers, mushrooms and dried strawberry. It was full-bodied with round yet fine tannins. Toffee character adds to the complexity of flavors. Love this. Drink now.

The 1980 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was harvested on October 18 at a measly 18hl/ha. It has a mature appearance, just a little turbidity in the glass with wide degradation on the rim. This is the second time that I have tasted this wine and it replicates the wonderful aromatics of strawberry pastilles, pressed roses, sea spray (that turns more briny/peaty with aeration) and just a trace of jasmine. The palate is medium-bodied and fully mature, just a hint of brown sugar filtering through the dark berry fruit, segueing into a mulberry mixed with white pepper towards the finish. Yes, it is a bit rustic, yet the acidity is supremely well judged. Maybe now it is just past its peak, but it is a great Romanée-Conti. Tasted at the Romanée-Conti dinner at the Connaught Hotel.