2009 Voliero Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Voliero is a soft and corporeal expression with voluptuous contours of ripe fruit, blackberry, licorice and dark espresso bean. The wine shows its oak imprinting well (it ages 36 months in barrel), without feeling too heavy or massive. The obvious reason is because the wine shows the natural pulp and richness to absorb those spicy, toasted overtones. Although the wine looms large in terms of its opulence, the results are balanced and pristine. There’s a youthful snap to the tannins that will carry the wine forward over its future aging evolution. Drink: 2017-2028. Without a shadow of a doubt, Andrea Cortonesi of Uccelliera lands high on my list of favorite Brunello di Montalcino producers. His Casato 1 project is a relatively new winemaking venture that pairs with a gorgeous Eno-Ristorante that Andrea has opened at the heart of Siena not far from the romantically shell-shaped Piazza del Campo (the most beautiful public square in Italy, in my opinion). The Casato restaurant is specialized in seasonal, local dishes and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a delicious food and drink in Siena. Importers: Marc De Grazia Imports, www.marcdegrazia.com

New project of Andrea Cortonesi of Uccelliera to the north of Montalcino. Mid ruby with orange tinges. A little spicy, and with a hint of undergrowth. Concentrated fruit with a proper structure and lifted acidity. Stalky tannins building up on the finish. (WS)