2005 Maison Nicolas Potel Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er Cru

A 2005 Volnay Clos de Chenes displays a sour cherry and cinnamon aroma, a correspondingly tart, bright and pungent palate, underlying meat stock, overt chalkiness, and impressive density. Rather grainy in texture, the fruit seems slightly blocked by the tannins in this wine’s finish, which however exhibits plenty of brown spice and chalky minerality. This may well need a bit more time to recover from bottling as its ripeness, structure, liveliness, and sheer concentration are not in question. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.