1989 Château Chasse-Spleen

With vivid memories of the outstanding 1990 in my head, I approached my maiden 1989 Chasse-Spleen with lofty expectations. With faint aging on the rim, the 1989 shares the 1990's melted quality on the nose, scents of red fruit commingling with mocha and brown spices, a whiff of Montecristo later. The palate is medium-bodied with a lighter chassis than the 1990. It's a bit leathery and certainly attenuates towards the finish. You feel that age has nibbled away at this Moulis-en-Médoc, and it does fade in the glass. Drink up. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.

The 1989 Chasse-Spleen offers chestnut and black truffle on the nose, with a touch of dried blood, comfortably revealing in its secondary aromas. The palate is wonderfully balanced, the dusty black fruit laced with cedar and charcoal, a hint of soy on the “old school” finish. The 1989 has held up wonderfully and, though maybe not quite as charming or as voluminous as the 1990, it is not far off. Tasted from a bottle bought on release and tasted at “Brat” restaurant in London.