2010 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru

Droin’s 2010 Chablis Vaillons is quite typical of the year in that the fruit is very intense, yet there is also more than enough minerality to back things up. Overall, this is one of the more generous, open wines in the lineup, but it could benefit from another year or two in bottle. Flowers, white stone fruits and citrus wrap around the finish. The Vaillons usually sees 20% of oak, but that number is up a bit in 2010 because of the lower than normal yields. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Once again, my tasting with Benoit Droin was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis.Vintage 2011 was characterized by an early, easy and even flowering, which resulted in a generous crop. August rains bloated the grapes, which turned out to be a bit of an issue, as the harvest was several weeks earlier than normal. Droin began bringing in his 2011s on August 31st, three full weeks earlier than 2010. Droin describes 2011 as having lower acidity than 2010 and being better than 2005, 2006 and 2009 in a style that sits in between 2003 and 2007, if that makes sense. Droin’s 2011 are quite strong across the board, even if they lack the visceral thrill of the very best years. Personally, I prefer the 2010s, which I loved the minute I first tasted them from tank last year. The wines have a combination of fruit and acidity that is striking. Droin doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention in the press, but in my opinion, this is one of the very finest producers in Chablis. I have also had great luck with older bottles, as these are typically wines that age beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(from the second bottling, in January of 2012): Bright straw-yellow. Reticent aromas of citrus fruit and saline oyster shell minerality. Begins juicy and penetrating, with a distinctly taut quality to the citrus and steely mineral flavors, then shows a creamier aspect toward the back. Very fresh Vaillons with a long, spicy finish.

Very fresh and racy with a strong chalky finish. Succulent and a good bet for short- and long-term pleasure. (JR)