2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja Red Label

The 2000 Barbaresco Rabaja is marvelous. It is also the most backward of Giacosa's 2000s. Intense notes of mienrals, menthol, plums and spicecake take shape in the glass as this regal, aristocratic Barbaresco reveals its pedigree and sheer class. Here the warmth of the vintage offsets the natural austerity of Rabaja, resulting in a complete, beautifully balanced Barbaresco of the highest level. The Red Labels get most of the attention among Giacosa's 2000s, but the Rabaja isn't too far off the pace. Personally, I find it more interesting than the Rocche.

My guess is that one day Giacosa's Barbaresco Rabajà will be viewed as the most successful of his 2000 Barbareschi. I loved the wine's structure and power. Endless layers of mineral and balsamic-infused fruit caressed the palate through to the finish. Wow!

Brick-red, a bit less deep than the Asili. Lower-pitched aromas of chocolate, mocha, smoke and animal fur; the fruit is in the background today. Then fat, dense and sweet in the mouth, with more structure and grip than the Asili and a less roasted character. Very long finish features ripe, building tannins.