2019 Maison Champy Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru

Very black-cherry nose, but without any hint of overripeness, gaining complex, smoky character as it aerates in the glass. A very polished Corton that doesn’t flex its muscles demonstratively, rather the massive tannin structure is almost completely below the waterline, the very long finish focused on an vanishing point on the distant horizon. Drink or hold.