2008 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
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Tasted asse mbled from demi-muids (none of which were new), the Brocard 2008 Chablis Les Clos displays bright lemon and lime, salt and chalk, with striking luscious, primary juiciness allied to transparency to mineral nuance that transcends the other wines in this year’s collection. Yet it’s not so much the nuances or details that impress for now though, as the expansive, well-lit stage and the finishing reach of this richly-textured yet vivacious grand cru. I would anticipate its being worth following for at least ten or a dozen years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report. Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
(bottled in March) Pale yellow. Captivating bright, pure, complex nose is dominated by iodine and powdered stone. Less powerful than the Valmur but sharply delineated, with terrific cut and depth to its saline, fine-grained lemon, mineral and iodiney oyster shell fla vors. Finishes wonderfully long and tactile, with terrific subtle perfume. Manages to be very rich without coming across as thick, in the way of the best examples of this great grand cru. This has delivered on its early promise but will require patience.
(in four-year-old wood foudres Pale, green-tinged color. Subtly complex nose offers lemon, nutmeg and powdered stone. Powerful and penetrating in the mouth, delivering a superb balance of tautness and richness. Wonderfully refined, three-dimensional wine, with captivating lemon-lime perfume in the mid-palate and a tactile, rising, impressively long finish featuring saline minerality and crushed stone. This youthfully tight wine should evolve very slowly in bottle and last well.