2014 Fèlsina Chianti Classico Berardenga

Dark and savory, the 2014 Chianti Classico Berardenga delivers dried fruit and a broad approach. The wine does not offer the obvious primary fruit you usually get in a young Chianti Classico. Instead, it shows a dark color and evolved aromas of tobacco, leather and candied prune. In fact, this vintage tastes older than it actually is. This wine is best consumed within the next two or three years.

The 2014 Chianti Classico Berardenga is fabulous. Fresh, aromatic and salivating with acidity, the 2014 is a super-old school Chianti Classico from start to finish. The intense acidity might come as a shock to readers used to more contemporary, supple wines, but this is a terrific example of what Chianti Classico from Castelnuovo Berardenga is all about. Cherry pit, leather, smoke, grilled herbs, menthol and game add striking nuance throughout. The savory, earthy style that is typical of the estate's best wines comes through loud and clear. In 2014, Fèlsina did not bottle their top Riservas, all the best fruit went into the straight Chianti Classico. The 2014 is a wine to buy by the case and enjoy over the next 20 years. I won't be surprised if the 2014 develops into an even better wine than this note suggests.

Castelnuovo Berardenga. Already maturing mid ruby. Plenty of spice on the nose with brooding cherry fruit. Fresh red fruit palate but lacking a little in vigour and length, and with a rather tannic finish. (WS)