2010 Domaine de Chantemerle Chablis L'Homme Mort 1er Cru

Readers who can find the flagship, small production 2010 Chablis L’Homme Mort should not hesitate. Today, the 2010 is quite cool and reticent. Next to the Fourchaume, it is even more saline and pointed. Mint and floral notes develop over time, adding layers of complexity in this compelling and intriguing Chablis. With time in the glass, the fruit begins to blossom a bit, hinting at what might develop in bottle over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Francis Boudin is a simple, straightforward man, and so are his wines. Boudin describes the 2011s as having a lot of fruit, but not a lot of acidity. Accordingly, he thinks they need to be drunk within the next 2-3 years. Boudin says the 2010s are vins de garde, and can last 5-6 years because of their higher acidity. Personally, I would like to think the 2010s will last a little longer than that, especially if stored properly. The Chantemerle wines are mid-weight, genuine offerings that capture the rustic, artisan side of Chablis. The best wines can be compelling, but in lesser years, the wines are much less interesting. A Peter Vezan Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A bit harder and less charming than the Fourchaumes. May get there... (JR)

The 2010 Chablis L'Homme Mort literally explodes onto the palate with an exotic, inviting mélange of yellow stone fruit, smoke, ash and minerals. This is a deep, plush style endowed with considerable power, raciness and flat-out intensity. The rich, textured finish rounds things out in style. This is a striking wine of considerable pedigree. Unfortunately there will be just 1,700 bottles to go around. I imagine this will be utterly spellbinding from magnum.