1995 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots

My solitary previous encounter with the 1995 Meursault Rougeot was memorable only for a severe case of reduction, but here, a more representative example came packed with a sublime, mineral-laden nose with touches of undergrowth and damp-moss aromas, intermingling with smoked walnut. The palate is languid and refined, though builds towards quite a fiery finish. This is very fine, although I cannot envisage long-term improvement. Drink now-2018. Tasted November 2013. Here is another raft of wines from the most feted and yet still mysterious Cote de Beaune growers. Jean-Francois Coche’s reds are more elusive than his whites, but they can be astonishing. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524