2014 Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
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Note di degustazione
(the Colin-Deleger 2014s did their malos later than the Bruno Colin wines aged in the same cellar): Aromas of pineapple, smoke, butter and nuts, plus a powerful spicy oak element. Fat, round, full and rich, with rather full-blown flavors of yellow stone fruits, pineapple and smoky oak; less woody on the palate than on the nose. The very long, slowly mounting finish shows some edgy acidity.
Punteggi della critica
Neal Martin
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
An element of leesy reduction adds sex appeal to aromas of peach, gingery spices and crushed stone. Dense and thick on the palate; a real high-wire act of sweetness and acidity, conveying terrific depth and almost painful intensity. Orchard fruit and smoky mineral flavors are complicated by a suggestion of exotic fruits. Finishes salty, tactile and very long. These old vines yielded a moderate crop of about 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2014. The semi-retired Michel Colin now farms only 0.7 hectares of vines; his 2014s finished their malos in mid-March, later than son Bruno's wines, which are raised in the same cellar.
The 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru impresses in terms of purity on the nose, although after more than a decade, there remains a patina of oak that needs to be subsumed. Hints of fennel and freshly baked brioche join the citrus fruit with time. The palate is powerful with superb grip, just a little honeyed in texture. It delivers the complexity and mineralité you expect from this noble vineyard, and its persistence deserves applause.