2014 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2014 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru was completely shut down on the nose when I tasted it and despite rigorous coaxing, it remained tight-lipped. The palate is balanced but somehow a little static, missing the energy and tension that a young Chevalier-Montrachet should exude. Perhaps it was not coming out to play on the day I visited the domaine? I will reserve judgement for later and hope that it will sort itself out in bottle. This was a vexing showing.

Bright, pale, green-tinged yellow. Deep aromas of honey, quinine, flint and sweet oak. Plush, suave and complex, offering soil-driven flavors of lime, lemon, crushed stone, mint and white truffle. A touch exotic like the Chauméees but the glyceral texture is leavened by mint and herb nuances. Fat and smooth on the aftertaste but not yet showing the length of the best vintages here.

Reduction pushes the floral-scented aromas to the background. Otherwise there is excellent richness to the powerful and concentrated flavors, indeed this is almost succulent which is unusual for Chevalier though there is plenty of the hallmark minerality on the sappy and lingering finale. If there is a nit it's that this is not especially complex even allowing for how young it is, and my score offers the benefit of the doubt that more will develop and it should given this wine's impeccable long-term track record. Jun 2016, www.burghound.com