2016 Bouchard Père & Fils Montrachet Grand Cru

Tropical and opulent with a candied edge to the fruit, and lovely sea-salt savouriness to the finish. Surprisingly restrained oak, which allows the fruit to shine through. Plenty of alcoholic warmth on the aftertaste. Multi-dimensional. (RH)

There is just half of the quantity of the 2016 Montrachet Grand Cru this year (although that said, that's probably a multiple of what fellow Montrachet growers inherited). The bouquet has that marine-like tincture like the La Cabotte—oyster shell and sea cave scents underlying the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, sappy in the mouth, a brooding intensity toward the finish. You can just feel the presence of this Montrachet, the opening chapter of a great wine. This will take several years to reach its apogee but it will be worth the wait.