2007 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Charmes 1er Cru

(tasted from barrel; the wine was scheduled to be racked the week after my visit) Restrained nose hints at candied citrus peel, flowers, vanilla and smoky lees. On the palate, lovely sweetness is perfectly buffered by ripe acidity, but this is very backward and minerally wine-more Perrieres-like than most other growers' Perrieres. Taut and uncompromising, and less showy than the Genevrieres.

Sweet and creamy, more opulent and fuller in the mouth than the Genevrières. Almost exotic with lemon peel on the finish – a zesty contrast to the richness in the mouth. Slightly salty at the very end. (JH)

(I tasted an approximation of the final blend) Aromas of orange zest, nut oils and charred oak. At once sweet and dry, with terrific backbone to its soft citrus and mineral flavors. A wonderfully spicy, mineral-driven wine with plenty of size and weight. "Not better than the Genevrieres but greater in the sense that it has more weight and energy," notes Lafon. As is often the case, this wine struck me as more Perrieres in style than the typical Charmes.