2010 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru

Exotic and beguiling notes define the 2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. Ash, smoke, slate and white peach are some of the many nuances that emerge as this vivid wine opens up in the glass. The Montee de Tonnerre is one of the tighter 2010s here, and it needs further time in bottle, but it is beautiful. The Montee de Tonnerre is austere and precise, but fills out beautifully with air. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Once again, my tasting with Benoit Droin was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis.Vintage 2011 was characterized by an early, easy and even flowering, which resulted in a generous crop. August rains bloated the grapes, which turned out to be a bit of an issue, as the harvest was several weeks earlier than normal. Droin began bringing in his 2011s on August 31st, three full weeks earlier than 2010. Droin describes 2011 as having lower acidity than 2010 and being better than 2005, 2006 and 2009 in a style that sits in between 2003 and 2007, if that makes sense. Droin’s 2011 are quite strong across the board, even if they lack the visceral thrill of the very best years. Personally, I prefer the 2010s, which I loved the minute I first tasted them from tank last year. The wines have a combination of fruit and acidity that is striking. Droin doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention in the press, but in my opinion, this is one of the very finest producers in Chablis. I have also had great luck with older bottles, as these are typically wines that age beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Bright straw-yellow. Subdued but pure aromas of citrus peel, underripe pineapple, tarragon, crushed stone and oyster shell. Tightly wound, dry and brisk, with razor-sharp flavors of citrus fruits and saline, smoky minerality. Finishes very long and aromatic, with terrific precision, thrust and energy. A terrific Montee de Tonnerre with considerable aging potential.

The 2010 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is rather exotic in this vintage. It shows off layers of super-ripe fruit in a voluptuous, caressing style that, nevertheless, retains plenty of focus and verve. An array of saline, minerally and smoky notes appears later, adding further complexity. This is a striking, complete wine that simply dazzles from start to finish.