2001 Château Pichon Lalande

The 2001 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a vintage that I was surprised to discover I had not tasted for a decade. Showing light bricking on the rim, it has an open nose of brambly red berry fruit intermixed with cola, sage and tobacco, the relative higher proportion of Merlot rendering a different Grand Vin compared to nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe and now quite melted tannins. Savory in style, this is becoming quite a Saint-Julien-like Pauillac, hints of dried blood developing toward the finish as secondary notes become more pronounced. This is now reaching its maturity, although it has the substance to last another 20-some years.

Sweeter and silkier aromatics on the nose than the 2000 vintage, a more softly spoken wild strawberry and raspberry puree fruit, with acidity evident on the close of play. Tobacco and campfire notes curl through alongside white pepper and tumeric. It is supremely elegant, almost more St Julien than Pauillac in expression but still plenty of estate signature. The fine tannins build up over the palate and tell you that it is not going anywhere soon. A gentler and more seductive expression than the biggest vintages. 50% new oak, 3.89ph.

Very broad and evolved. Much sweeter than most of the 2001 left-bank classed growths with a touch of inkiness. Not quite as well integrated as some of its peers. (JR)