2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Marey Monge Grand Cru

A total stunner, the 2017 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru is the most expressive wine in the lineup today. Rich, creamy and so wonderfully textured, the RSV simply has it all. The tannins are present, but they are also matched by tremendous fruit density and pure power. Floral and savory overtones grace the lifted, saline finish. Leaving price aside, if I could only have one wine in this range, it would unquestionably be the RSV. The 2017 is a total knock-out. That’s all there is to it. This fruit was picked on September 10 and 11.

The 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was picked on September 10 and 11 at 36hl/ha and bottled between April 26 and May 21. It initially has a more reticent bouquet compared to the Richebourg and requests more time in the glass. Eventually it evolves wonderful, almost pixelated scents of red berry fruit, wild hedgerow and crushed stone. Although it is less intense than the previous two vintages, I discern a touch more precision and focus than in the Richebourg. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. There is a little more body and depth than in the aforementioned Grand Cru; more energy, perhaps. A mixture of red and black fruit emerges toward the finish, the latter becoming more prominent with aeration. This is a delicious Romanée-Saint-Vivant. Beautiful. 1,693 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.

Pale garnet. Very wild and aromatic. Lively and fresh. Even more transparent than the Richebourg. Racy and actually in a blind tasting this might be easy to miss as it doesn’t have the obvious concentration one associates with the Domaine. Very C21! Very dry, even a little hard on the end. I’m sure it will be fabulous but it’s not as showy as some today. 1,693 cases (JR)