2009 Chablis Vaudesir

The 2009 Chablis Vaudesir is all about nuance. This is one of the more inward, chiseled wines among the 2009s. The finely sculpted white stone fruits and flowers flesh out nicely on the mid-palate, leading to an open, radiant finish. The Vaudesir is another terrific showing from Droin. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Bright yellow. Warm, exotic aromas of orange oil, brioche and coconut. Rich and broad but a bit disjointed today, with a ripe pear flavor currently cut off by an aggressive finish. I might have picked this as a Cote d'Or wine. I don't find the purity of fruit, or the follow-through, of the Mont de Milieu or Montee de Tonnerre.

(from a combination of 35- and 15-year-old vines; 35% done in f u ts Orange peel, hazelnut and grilled almond on the nose; showing a much suaver oak element than the Valmur. Silky, lush and fine-grained; quite full and powerful in the mouth. This is almost Meursault in style. Finishes long and thick for Chablis, reflecting the warmth of the year. "But the 2006 is an even hotter version of this wine," notes Droin.