2012 Chablis Montmains

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains comes from the last parcel in the climat before it becomes Forest. It has a subtle marine influence on the nose that the other premier crus do not exhibit at present, but with a couple minutes swirling, it also offers attractive wet pavement scents. The palate is lively on the entry with red apples, a touch of pear and apricot, well-judged acidity and a satisfying, long finish. Drink 2015-2024. Located on the banks of the river Serein, Duplessis marked my first visit on a brisk, sunny May morning, where Gerard’s son Lilian Duplessis greeted me. He came across as a young and lively winemaker, full of energy and brio. “Duplessis is a family domaine,” he told me, “and I represent the fifth generation after starting in 2000. I worked alongside my father until 2007 upon his retirement. We began working organically in 2007 and gained ECOCERT certification in 2010. There are nine hectares of vine, which has expanded with purchases of Petit Chablis, plus a hectare en fermage in Mont de Milieu that will debut with the 2014 vintage. The Petit Chablis spends 8 months in cuves and the Chablis around 12 months, with a traditional elevage: natural alcoholic fermentation, natural malo and aging sur lie for as long as possible. We rack to eliminate the first lees. For the premier crus such as Fourchaume, Montee de Tonnerre the total elevage is 18 months: 12 months in stainless steel before racking and then six months in wood, including around 15% new barrels. We bottle at the domaine.” This was a good selection of wines from Duplessis. In some ways they felt Zen-like: clinical, efficient and linear Chablis that get straight to the point and deliver exactly what you want from a Chablis with minimum fuss. Importer Dan Kravitz, Handpicked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400