2022 Cepparello

This is my first taste of Isole e Olena's landmark wine now that this historic estate has passed from the ownership of the De Marchi family to France's EPI Group (Société Européenne de Participations Industrielles). The 2022 Cepparello is all Sangiovese from this magnificent property that covers the rolling hills between two tiny hamlets, one named Isole and the other Olena. In between are vineyards on well-draining soils with galestro shale, open vistas and gentle breezes. These conditions contribute to the vibrancy of the fruit and its natural freshness. Winemaking for Cepparello follows a familiar pattern, starting with fermentation in cone-shaped vats and aging in a combination of barrique, tonneaux and botte grande for 18 months. I can't say that this is my favorite vintage of Cepparello, especially when I think back to 2013, 2016, 2019 and 2021. The 2022 offers sweeping flavors and good concentration, but it does not have the same depth or length. With dark cherry, blackcurrant, spice and iris root, this is an elegant wine with an accessible personality that makes it approachable without too much fuss. Production is 50,000 bottles.