2009 Brunello di Montalcino V. V.

From their highest vineyard at 600 m. Already showing a little undergrowth and really needs decanting. More minerally than fruity at this stage. Really lifted palate with tart acidity. This wine will probably prove to be indestructible, but just a little too austere, at least for now. (WS)

Sweet tobacco, underbrush, mint, licorice and spices flesh out in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Ragnaie V.V., the estate's old-vines cuvee. Nicely layered in the glass, this mid-weight, silky Brunello should drink well for the next few years. Dark red stone fruits, dried flowers, autumn leaves, dried cherries and worn-in leather linger on the finish. The 2009 lacks depth, which exposes the tannins and suggests near-term drinking is the best option.

The ethereal 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Ragnaie V.V. sees fruit sourced from older vines from vineyards located almost at the bull’s eye center of the appellation, roughly equidistant between Montalcino and Tavernelle. Under 3,000 bottles were produced. Like the base Brunello, this wine first goes into cement vats to undergo fermentation and this step has added much in terms of the wine’s aromatic profile. Subdued notes of pressed flower, dusty earth, ash and crushed mineral render a feminine and elegant expression. This wine is simply fantastic and among my favorite of the year. Drink: 2017-2027. Le Ragnaie is, in my opinion, the break-out star of the 2009 vintage. If I were to select my top picks of the 2009 vintage, these beautiful bottles would be among them. Their tasting profile – loaded with gorgeous, elegant floral nuances – clearly sets them apart. They are the essence of balance and Brunello beauty. Importer: Vine Street Imports, www.vsimports.com