2023 Idda Etna Bianco

A pure expression of Carricante, the Idda 2023 Sicilia Bianco shows citrusy notes, some freshly cut grass, honey and creamy almond. This native grape from the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna is usually quite sharp and steely in presentation, but this bottle from the Gaja and Graci winemaking team offers more textural heft and overall fruit weight. When you look deeper, you might find Sicilian tones of bergamot and caper blossom. Idda does a great job with this mid-weight white wine.

The 2023 Bianco demands attention with a beguiling bouquet that mixes crushed rocks, sesame seeds and curry leaves with nectarines and lemon zest. This opens with a pretty inner sweetness contrasted by masses of salty minerals and zesty acidity as ripe orchard fruits cascade throughout. The 2023 tapers off dramatically, long and spicy. A sour citrus tinge forces the mouth to salivate as hints of candied lime and a tart Granny Smith apple concentration slowly fade. In a word, fantastic.