2007 Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane

From young vines immediately north of the hamlet of Blagny high above Les Perrieres – whose mineral cast Remy believes it will come to resemble, Leflaive’s 2007 Meursault Sous le Dos de Ane smells of honeysuckle and fresh apricot; comes onto the palate quite rich and silken, but with bright lemon and chalk dust adjuncts; and finishes with salinity, chalkiness, and a meat broth-like savor vaguely reminiscent of Chablis. The combination of (metaphorically) warm ripeness and lush texture with overt mineral notes is unusual and fascinating, and there is satisfying if not especially dynamic persistence. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 3-4 years. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Bright, pale yellow. Restrained aromas of stone fruits, clove, nuts and minerals. Fruitier and sweeter in the mouth than the Clavoillon, with enticing harmonious acidity but less obvious minerality. But this rich, round wine has plenty of depth, and its mineral component comes up on the oak-spicy finish.