2014 Chablis Reserve de l'Obedience
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The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots La Réserve de l'Obédience has a similar nose to the regular 2014 Blanchots, as you would expect, although here there is slightly more detail and transparency. It is not as powerful as the regular Blanchots, but there is clearly more delineation here. The palate is fresh and crisp with a fine line of acidity, detailed and precise with a lovely saline edge. There is refinement and class here, nothing spectacular, but everything in its right place, while the persistence is very long. This is the crown jewel among Laroche's 2014s this year.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Vivid apple fruit, tight palate and a lengthy, vibrant finish. Not appreciably 'better' than their other Blanchot cuvée. (RH)
(blended the day before my visit by cellarmaster Stéphane Barras): Very pale green-tinged yellow. Great perfumed lift to the aromas and flavors of white peach, lime, lemon, crushed stone and smoky minerals. Wonderfully silky on the palate but bracing acidity keeps it tight today; really spectacular inner-mouth tension here. Best now on the explosive, pungent, very long lemon-limey finish. Conveys outstanding density and energy without any heaviness.
(a selection of the best lots, from both barrels and stainless steel; 90% of this wine was aged in oak, including a bit of new wood): Extremely reduced nose shows an almost metallic, iodiney minerality and a whiff of cassis bud along with a touch of vanillin oak. Large-scaled, broad and tactile with extract, communicating excellent spicy depth to its citrus, white peach and crushed stone flavors. This hugely concentrated 2014 has the tannic support for a long life in bottle; it's richer and saltier than the classic Blanchots but will need longer aging.