2023 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières opens in the glass with aromas of pear and sweet citrus oil mingled with toasted nuts and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chalky, with lively acids and a long, saline finish, it's a strong effort.

Mid lemon, with more oak on the nose. Plenty of weight here, with some Perrières minerals as well as flesh, and an attractive aftertaste, still oaky, but that will integrate easily enough with time.

Cask sample. A little bit of smoky tension, citrus-oil fragrance, as if someone held a lit beeswax candle to a coil of orange peel and gently burned it until the oils started to warm and smoke. Apricots and peaches. And underneath everything a faint line of liquorice. Lots of substance restrained by bone-dry tension. A sense of savouriness, waiting in the wings, all to come. Long and full and mouth-filling. (TC)