2005 Brunello di Montalcino

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the undeniable successes of the vintage. Dark cherries, violets, tar and licorice are just some of the nuances that emerge from this plush, fruit-driven Brunello. The wine remains wonderfully soft and generous all the way through to an enveloping finish that invites a second taste. The freshness here makes me think the wine will develop nicely in bottle. This is wonderful juice! La Poderina ages their Brunello in cask (60%) and French oak (40%) for the first year, followed by a second year done entirely in cask followed by 18 months in bottle. Readers can also look forward to a 2005 Riserva Poggio Banale that has already been bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This year the highlights at La Poderina are without question the Brunellos. In particular, I was deeply impressed by the 2003 Riserva Poggio Banale, which is a phenomenal effort in this torrid vintage. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Opaque, deep ruby with black tinge. Somewhat vegetal and spicy and reluctant. Quite interesting on the palate, though, but it remains to be seen if this turns into something more complex. (WS)