2022 Ornellaia

A Mediterranean-style wine. Stunning elegance on the nose, with vibrant dried eucalyptus leaves, flowers, restrained brambleberries and hints of black cherries, dried bananas, milk chocolate, cloves and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with elegant tannins and a touch of dust. It’s savory and well packed, with integrated, brilliant freshness and a ripe, fruity finish with a toasty aftertaste of blond tobacco. Try from 2026.

The 2022 Ornellaia is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A deep but bright purple/red color, it has a fantastic nose of blackberries, polished cedar, lavender, sweet herbs, and dark cocoa. Full-bodied, it has a rich structure, with warming concentration but a very balanced feel. The tannins are ripe and frame the underlying mineral notes very nicely, its fruity richness fleshing it out harmoniously. It is not a fruity vintage for this wine, though, and its structure leads here. Drink 2027-2050.

100% Sauvignon Blanc. After whole-bunch pressing and static decantation, the must was fermented in 25% new and 75% used barriques, 320- and 600-litre tonneaux. Aged for 10 months on the lees, but without lees stirring, followed by 2 months in stainless steel and 6 months in bottle. Deep straw yellow with a golden tinge. Orange blossom, apricot, acacia honey and hints of vanilla cream and mace and the merest suggestion of salted capers and dried chamomile. Clearly not aiming at displaying easy varietal character. Creamy quince and apricot fruit with a citric nerve running through the finish. Luscious yet with a little bite. (WS)