2022 Batar

Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco. Certified organic (015). Deep straw yellow with a brilliant lemony tinge. A rich yellow-fruit nose with a hint of sweet oak and creamy butter. Grapefruit, tropical fruit and creamy yellow fruit. Just enough acidity to finely balance the considerable concentration. But the torrid year has been handled skilfully and I wouldn’t be surprised if this wine ages well. (WS)

Full bottle just 1,282 g. 50% Chardonnay from south-facing Casaocci Sud at 350 m and sandstone-dominated Il Pallonaio at 600 m and 50% Pinot Bianco from a cool, north-facing site at 400 m. Picked 29 August to 13 September. Average yield 25 hl/ha. Spontaneous fermentation and 9 months' ageing on lees with minimal stirring in French oak barriques (20% new). TA 4.93 g/l, pH 3.29. Certified organic. Mid yellowish straw. Waxy and herbal on the nose with good structure and rich palate entry but with density counterbalanced by suitable acidity. A hint of lime on the end. Broad-beamed and long but I'd love to see this with a little more bottle age and development. I have based my suggested drinking dates on the results of this tasting. This is a white to accompany all sorts of savoury dishes – with creamy sauces perhaps. (JR)

The 2022 Batàr is airy, fresh and nuanced. Hints of tangerine oil, mint, lemon peel, almond and dried flowers are all nicely lifted in this aromatic, refreshing white. The style continues to move in the direction of energy and vibrancy. These days, there's minimal lees-stirring and just a hint of new oak, a response to changing climate conditions and stylistic preferences. This is beautifully done and also quite expressive, especially for a wine that was just bottled.