1989 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux

The 1989 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru offers smudged red fruit on the nose, quite tertiary and almost Médoc-like. Curious! Yet the palate is far better than either the 1990 or 1991, with cleaner fruit and more tension. Still dense and muscular, this at least has a bit of swagger, and though a bit uncouth, there is vigor and personality on the finish. Fine, but I would not keep bottles much longer. Tasted at the Clos des Epeneaux vertical in London.