2012 Romanee St Vivant

Seven pièces – normal in 2012. Yields of 15 hl/ha. Great race and life. Dense and yet lift too. Great elegance. Lots of very fine, subtle juice. Very refined. I ask her to describe the character of RSV and she says immediately, ‘it's a fairy, a dream, transparent’. Such aérien quality! (JR)

The 2012 Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has an entrancing, extraordinarily pure bouquet with raspberry preserve and wild strawberry intermingling with minerals, cold stone. The palate is so refined and effortless: filigree tannins, perfect acidity allied with a sense of effortlessness contrary to the effort that went into its creation. So silky and weightless on the cashmere finish, this is a wine that you will tell your children about if you are ever blessed to drink a bottle. Lalou Bize-Leroy’s domaine wines are not the easiest to procure, but given that in 2012 the average rendement was a paltry 9hl/ha then I am envisaging a few lively “discussions” on the touchy subject of allocations. Lalou, suffering the sniffles when I visited but as energetic as always, was ecstatic about her 2012s, regaling them for their mineralite and terroir expression. She started picking on 17 September, a little earlier than others, and told me that the malo-lactics were a little tardier than usual because of the fresh acidity levels. Certainly some of the samples demonstrated a lot of reduction, more than Lalou was care to admit, but peering through them, there really were some quite astonishing wines in her midst. I speculate that the better Lalou’s wines, the more excited her two dogs behave during the tasting, and our two hour degustation was interspersed by manic tail wagging, the occasion tussle and one growling stand-off at the precise moment I had her magisterial Musigny in my glass. The journey through the grand crus was exhilarating, each suffused with untrammeled energy and tension, more expressive of their terroirs than the 2011s that I tasted back in July. There is a part of me that wants to by cynical given the stratospheric prices demanded, as if to say to Lalou: “Prove it.” And that’s the thing – they go ahead and prove that these are some of the finest Pinot Noirs produced on Earth. Readers should not that Lalou invited me to taste her 2012s either from barrel or later in bottle, whichever I prefer but not both due to miniscule quantities that are often just a single barrel, a position I completely respect and support. I would have chose the latter if I was being selfish, but the former to offer some guidance and some juxtaposition with other vignerons. Also, I did not taste the wines from Domaine d’Auvenay simply because the quantities are so depleted in 2012. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040 and through Justerini & Brooks (UK)