2023 Beaune Aux Cras

The 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is another of the highlights chez Jadot this year, wafting from the glass with notes of raspberries, spices, rose petals and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, suave and pure palate that's vibrant and mineral. As readers may remember, this old-vine parcel, formerly belonging to the Château de Chorey, is often one of the stars of this house's Beaune portfolio.

The 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is another of the highlights chez Jadot this year, wafting from the glass with notes of raspberries, spices, rose petals and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, suave and pure palate that's vibrant and mineral. As readers may remember, this old-vine parcel, formerly belonging to the Château de Chorey, is often one of the stars of this house's Beaune portfolio. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.

Vinified in open vats and aged 18 months in oak. Cask sample. Lightish ruby. Bright, sweet-sour red-fruit aroma. Peppery, too. Tight, dry, fine-grained. A little bit lean but long and harmonious, very long. (JH)