2023 Corton Charlemagne

This concentrated, focused chardonnay is still tightly wound, but the stony minerality builds impressively, and the citrusy vitality gives it an impression of lightness in spite of the abundant power. Be patient until all of this can fully resolve, because the mineral drive in the finish promises great things to come. Drinkable now but best from 2027.

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is another terrific rendition of this bottling, which might well be the most underrated of the house's grand cru whites. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon, petrol, vanilla pod and toasty reduction, it's full-bodied, satiny and rich, with a layered, dense mid-palate and a long, mineral finish. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is another terrific rendition of this bottling, which might well be the most underrated of the house's grand cru whites. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon, petrol, vanilla pod and toasty reduction, it's full-bodied, satiny and rich, with a layered, dense mid-palate and a long, mineral finish.