2015 Chablis Les Clos

Pale silver-lemon color. Aromas of lemon ice and minerals complicated by nuances of flowers and almond. At once penetrating and tactile, with juicy, very dry flavors of wet stone, menthol and spices conveying a strong impression of saline minerality. Boasts lovely density and class--and balanced from the start even if it will unwind over the next couple decades in bottle Dauvissat, who added yeasts to this wine due to the hail, said he'd wait ten years. (just 30 hectoliters per hectare produced; this was the first vineyard Dauvissat harvested--on September 2, the second day after the hail storm)

Bright, light yellow. Extremely closed nose hints at leesy oatmeal and crushed rock; much less expressive and more monolithic today than the Preuses. Densely packed, sappy and youthfully austere in the mouth, hinting at incipient sweetness but showing very little today. At once spicier and less floral than the Preuses, this imposing wine conveys a strong wet stone character and terrific lemony lift. Powerful in dry extract and as backward as any 2015 Chablis I tasted this spring.

The 2015 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine Vincent Dauvissat is actually outflanked by the Eyrie, though it might be due to the stage this Chablis is at rather than actual inferiority. Closed on the nose at first, this is surly and not coming out to play, yet the palate is wonderful. It's very concentrated with sapid yellow fruit, harmonious with immense depth on the finish. It lacks some charm at the moment, but it will eventually come around. Keep any bottles you might have in reserve—even after 20 years! Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.