2007 Meursault Goutte d'Or

Ente’s 2007 Meursault Gouttes d’Or exhibits stony and briny elements one might have predicted given both the site and the wines that went before in his vintage collection. A lovely counterpoint between bright citrus and salt on the one hand and toasted grains and nuts with a hint of honey on the other lends this a distinctive dynamic and – for all of its overtly mineral cast – considerable charm. Zesty, invigorating, and palpably chalky in its long finish, this promises future richness and a good half dozen years of interest. Arnaud Ente began picking September 2, but although he is nearly always a partisan of early harvest, this one was spread out over nearly two weeks to optimize the aggregation of clarity and sufficient ripeness. That said, high acidity – including a sizeable share of malic acid – remained a common denominator and higher than in 2004 because, in Ente's words, "there was no heat during the summer to burn it off." His malo-lactic fermentations, however, were finished already in mid-winter. Natural alcohol levels were low – predictably, given both the vintage and Ente's strategy and preferences – not exceeding 12.5%, and only the Aliogte was chaptalized. For Ente, vintages without hot summer weather are simply the more interesting and enjoyable, thanks in large part precisely to their higher acidity and lower alcohol. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524