2017 Brunello di Montalcino

The Le Ragnaie 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a delicate and graceful expression that unfolds carefully to reveal wild berry, dried lilac and pretty earthy tones. This 26,000-bottle release fits into that enviable school of Brunello that prioritizes tradition, elegance and purity. These are the basic traits of a great Sangiovese, but they are not easily achieved by all. Le Ragnaie's identity is deeply linked with these efforts. Lifted notes of dried mint or Mediterranean herb appear on the close.

Le Ragnaie’s ‘entry-level’ Brunello wasn’t impoverished by the estate’s single-vineyard bottlings. It shows dried pressed violets and plump crushed cherry right out of the gate, with great purity. The tannins are firm and grippy, giving support to a substantial core and crunchy finish. Riccardo Campinoti finished harvesting 1 October rather than mid-October in 2017. He favours long maceration upwards of 60 days but this year felt that 40 days was sufficient, as he wasn’t completely satisfied with phenolic ripeness.

The Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wafts up with a pretty bouquet of smoky herbs, cherry-berry fruits and exotic spices. It's soft and pliant in feel, but juicy acids quickly enliven the spiced red currants and salty minerals found within. There's an unbelievable amount of pent-up tension here, as the cheeks pucker from a combination of grippy tannins and tart primary extract. The 2017 is tightly wound yet light-hearted, and begging for time in the cellar. However, I'm not sure that its fruit is up to the task. I tasted the 2017 three times; twice from separate bottles in November and in Italy at the winery over the summer.